Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.