🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.